Night in Madrid

I met Juanmi at El Corte Inglés rooftop bar on my first trip alone in Madrid for Spanish lessons and his first year in a new job here. Asked him about WiFi connection in the store and we ended up having a conversation on Camino de Santiago and exchanging contacts. That was in February 2015.We met again several times, every time I’m back in Madrid, we’ve gone on the Camino separately since and one can’t help but believe el Camino does bring people together.

Last night alone again in Madrid, I met Juanmi and his friend Javier who like me just completed the Camino to Santiago. We had a great time as always, sharing stories and catching up on all sorts of things.

When asked about my blogging, I coyly explained I’ve moved on to other things. But since they mentioned it, this blog is for you J & J, my first friends in Madrid who showed me the city I wouldn’t be able to explore on my own.

It’s with them I feel comfortable mingling with the local community, tasting a bit of the intricacies of an evolving young culture, their universal dreams so rooted to family and friends, their passion for travelling and most of all, the lesser known amazing places of this beautiful country.

And I love how the Spaniards spend the night out – working their way from one bar to the next, weaving in the maze of quiet streets that open to lighted busy squares tacked away cozily in the heart of hip districts away from tourist traps.

Madrid has changed over the past couple of years. It’s getting more vibrant and also more expensive. The main shopping street Gran Vía is undergoing a major upgrade and it’s currently lined with scaffoldings and barriers and workmen drilling and knocking the old pavements while laying new ones. I’m sure it’s going to look good when all’s done.

As I headed back to my hotel before midnight, a big crowd gathered at Plaza Callao to watch a performance, the homeless had already laid their overnights outside posh shops, men in corners shoving notes to men passing by, ladies of the night strategically positioned, last tourists rushing back, young people moving to other bars somewhere.

At the hotel entrance, a man was holding a bottle of water and I remembered I needed one too. Asked where he got it – round the corner, first lane on the left a minimart is still open.

So I went round the corner, back to the men shoving notes and strategic ladies, left to a small lane with pink neon lights that flashes LOVE, passed a couple of restaurants serving families, asked a man keeping an ad signboard if there’s a minimart por aquí.

He gestured to follow him deeper into the lane, now with less signs and people. I wasn’t really scared but began to doubt if he understood me. A few more steps and man, signboard and me entered the tiniest hole-in-the-wall establishment offering money change, photo copy, internet access, phone cards, souvenirs and what I came for – water bottles.

Walking back, streets now empty and quiet, the casino lights flashing bright, the veils of remodeling gently flapping building facades, construction barricades beacon with anticipation of a newer city, and a stunning full moon wedged between the buildings.

¡Ah Madrid!
May you stay as surprising as I first arrived here.

Thank you, Juanmi and Javier for making time, every time for this extranjera from Singapore.

Joan Yap